Pokhran

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Pokhran town is located at a distance of 112 kms from Jaisalmer on the junction of Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and Bikaner Road. This place suddenly hogged the international spotlight when the Indian government detonated nuclear devices here on 18th May 1974, ironically code-named ?The Buddha Smiles?. Once again international attention was focussed on it on the 11th and 13th May, 1998, when five more nuclear tests took place underneath its sandy surface, code-named this time as ?The Buddha Laughs?.

Pokhran is a sparsely populated area consisting mainly of scrub and sand. Attraction for tourists are Pokhran fort, havelis, cenotaphs and temples. The yellow sandstone Pokhran fort is over four centuries old and was constructed by the Marwar Thakur (local chieftain) Rao Maldeo who reigned from 1532-1584. Built with the remains of an earlier fort called Satelmer Fort, the Pokhran fort is well stocked with wells and grain stores and has a wonderful dining hall constructed in the second half of the 19th century. The wooden doors at the gateway were fitted with lethal iron spikes to guard against an elephant charge in case of an enemy onslaught. There is a small temple dedicated to the goddess Durga located in the second biggest courtyard of the fort, with stairs leading upto a zenana (women?s quarters).

The Pokhran Museum housed inside the fort?s premises is smallish and contains an assortment of weapons, paintings, pottery and the costumes which the Maharajas wore. Also displayed are the little games the royal family played during their leisure such as dominoes and dice.

The Pokhran fort is not as grand a fort as some of the others in Rajasthan and does present a slightly desolate look. However, as is the norm with most forts and palaces in the area, it has been converted into a hotel and provides very comfortable accommodation, which is not too heavy on the pocket either.